[/SIGPIC]2005 Rhino, 686cc, Ferrea valves, 3 plughead, Fuel Injected, Dual exhaust, ported head, Engine oil mod, Carrillo connecting rod on balanced crank assembly, Dyna FS ignition programed to the three plug heads requirement, overdrive weights, JBS machined sheave. 4 wheel brakes. Cold air intake with 4'' tubing, Kirkey Racing seats.
RUTTING RHINO AIR INTAKE RUTTING RHINO FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM Wide open performace cab and doors,UTV Inc altenator,Utv clutching,Hunterworks CDI box,Hunterworks od weights,wide open perf heater,stock carb Rutting Rhino jet kit,Diamondback bed cover,rhinolined bed,Piaa fogg and offroad lights,wide open per lights,full pro armour skids and arm ...
If, and when, I ever get this backfiring thing figured out I will need to put my carb back in. But I can't figure out how I force the choke cable back into the carb. There's and O-ring on the end the doesn't want to go in easy. Any suggestions? Thanx again! Rhino Hunter
I just got a 2008 Rhino 700. It is great but it will be used mostly for farm work and I did not know that the rear diff was locked all the time before I bought it. I would like to change it to a open differential with a locker similar to the front. I have searched a lot and I have not found...
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I think thats a great start man post up some pictures of the finished product! 2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 efi, 4000 lb warn winch, full windshield, stereo, custom front and rear bumpers, auxillary lights.
Had a similar problem yesterday on my 07 Rhino. Just wouldn't start after running it all day. Started right up this morning but later had problems. Looked under the hood where the brake pedal pushes through and noticed a plastic tensioner connected to a wire.
I need to replace the speed sensor. Does anyone know where it is located on my Rhino 660? Thanks!